Multiple Muslins (WHO AM I EVEN?!)

I got home from a super-awesome weekend trip late Sunday morning. But I'm getting too old for quick turnaround road trips and spent the rest of Sunday on the couch. Monday I went into my destroyed sewing room (last minute project to take with me!) and didn't have the energy to dive into anything else on my August list. Then wait, my olive M7547 pants...I really want those...

But Big4 pants.

Hmmm.

No doubt my biggest successes come from Burda and V9032 worked so well because of the 'butt princess seaming'. The back of those pants fit so, so well. I had many muslins with S2700 back in the day and do use that pattern still occasionally; but it's a silhouette that's a little different than what I'm currently into.

So I found the weird colored green fabric I ordered last year (it looked darker online!) and cut a muslin. They're numbered for my benefit so I remember the order...though the pics are telling.

Photo #1 is a straight out of the envelope size 18

• too tight
• back leg wrinkles
• not enough length in back
• too much length in front

I scooped the crotch curve and added inseam length. But they're still too tight and have no additional back length in the rise

Then I ripped open the back to let it separate (you don't want to see that) and added a 1" and 3/4" wedge (I normally add 1" to 1 1/4") and I lengthened the crotch point 

(spoiler alert: too much of an adjustment). 

I also lengthened the darts 1/2". Also the wrong move. If anything they should be about 1/2" shorter than the pattern. I don't know what made me decide to lengthen them...I sometimes shorten Burda darts...Because lengthening bak rise and shortening front rise are normal adjustments for me, I did those on the paper. I redrew the back curve and added to the crotch point directly on the fabric.

I actually went just a tad lower as I neared the crotch point when cutting out this chunk.

They LOOK okay. But as soon as I moved there was weird fabric everywhere. This is when I realized there was too much added to the back.

Suddenly my side seam isn't straight...and I meant to draw balance lines this time and forgot. 

Thinking about the 3-dimensional relationship between the fabric and my body, I decided to try something else. I decided the back was far too angled (scroll back up to the pic of the flat back!) and that I'd added too much. I took a wedge out on the fabric (it's not clean but the effect is clear). I also took out the back crotch seam, inseam and side seam and staggered them with the front so that the back seam allowance was 1/4" smaller at each of these. I only did these adjustments on the left side.

Excuse the poorly lit shot but SO much better! 

The only last bit is that it looks like my inseam is pulled upward still compared to the side seam, just less severely. So maybe I need a tiny bit more added to the inner thigh adjustment (I added 1/2") BUT this could also be a grain issue. I admit I wasn't as careful with this last muslin when cutting. And I was on the phone. I think I have enough of this fabric for a full length muslin. If not full length I'll at least go beyond the knees as much as possible. 

Also, I have a flexible ruler on the way to me, arriving tomorrow. Yay! So I figure I'll have a new pair of pants by the weekend?? :) 

Why am I going through all this trouble? My olive green stretch twill is pretty much amazing. It wasn't particularly expensive ($13.99/yd) but I love everything about it and want wearable pants from this. I also have an amazing piece of black stretch twill purchased back in March for the overalls from this pattern.

MN Primaries were held today!! 

Until later!

Vogue 1522: More New Pants!

Casual pant 2 of 3 done!

Erica sewed this pattern as an outfit and I fell hard for the top especially. I made the top last fall and the pants were always in the back of my mind as a possibility.

I have raved about this Telio jockey Ponte before (used for NL6530) and again, I am so happy with this fabric. I've worn the skirt from this fabric countless times and the top quite a few times. I knew this fabric would work really well as pants.

(I am a Fabric.com affiliate and purchasing through my links or banners will result in a small commission for me)

I cut a size large (16/18; I am normally an 18 on bottom). I added 1" to the back rise, 1/4" to the crotch point, and did a 3/8" knock knee adjustment.  I also lowered the front rise 3/4" and used twill tape instead of self-fabric tie as drawstring.



I basted before sewing (this is a thing for me now! hahaha!) and sewed the side seams at 3/4". I feel like mine fit similarly to the modeled photo and the lushness of the fabric makes them a bit more drapey.

The porkchop pockets are affected by my lowering of the front rise. They puff out just a bit right where the pattern was adjusted.

 Not much else to see on these as far as details!

One thing I did not like and could have easily adjusted if I'd read the directions beforehand(!) :) The waistband finishes at 2" and it calls for 1.5" elastic and topstitching along the upper part at 1/4". 

I could have easily made the waistband just a bit smaller. I don't want to topstitch an elastic waistband. Blergh.

THEY ARE SO COMFY!

And so cool!

(My posture is so bad. sheesh!)

I think they fit close enough that they can be worn for nighttime/slightly dressed up.

I just want to wear them all the time!

I think I'm all caught up with finished projects - whew! Wait. No. I have my black B6330 to show and have finished item 1 of 2 for my concert outfit. 

More later!

Grainline Felix

Back in 2014, when I participated in the Fabric Mart Fabricista challenge, we were given the Grainline Scout tee to 'make our own'. I muslined because I knew there was no way I was going to sew this as is.

I finished the challenge and wore the top for a bit...but I tossed the pattern immediately. I've not really considered any Grainline patterns since then (I've owned the Lakeside pjs since they were first released). Mainly, her patterns just don't match my aesthetic; too boxy, too shapeless. very casual in a way that I don't normally dress.

So while I liked the Felix immediately, my hesitation with Indies in general and this company specifically, made me pass. Then I saw the photo of the dress made up in the blue fabric! I decided to gamble because it looked amazing!! I bought a PDF version of the pattern on Pattern Review.

I saw a response from Jen to someone about the bodice finish basically "needing" the lining. You don't NEED the lining. It will produce a beautiful finish but it is not necessary because the bodice is finished with a facing. 

The PDF went together fine and everything matched up as it was supposed to (notches, etc). I am almost always annoyed by Indie patterns' gazillion pages of instructions. I'm not sure why 29 pages is necessary...e.g., 3 steps and a full page on understitching the facing. Gah. But the instructions were fine and they were mostly clear. I even read through the lining steps.

The left neckband is wonky on me. 

I tried fixing it after it was assembled so now my right band is a little sloppy. boooo!

I knew beforehand that I would be eliminating the horizontal seam in back, leaving it unlined and leaving out the pockets. You CAN have the pockets without lining but it requires more work than I think is worth it. If you wanted it unlined but with pockets, then I'd say go for inseam.

I do not like that horizontal back seam. At all. Again, there is a very specific body type that can take a seam going across their backside with fabric eased in...I ain't got it!

I sewed a size 12 based on the measurement chart and finished bust measurement. I decided to do a 3/4" FBA and eliminated the dart that was created. I could have used a *little* more room!  

Because the back skirt of the lining had no additional ease, I used that piece for my skirt. I attached them, overlapping the seam allowance, and did a 1/2" swayback adjustment. I added the seam allowance to CB directly on the fabric. I did NOT consider the fact that the lining piece is shorter, and had to shorten my front pattern piece after the fact. Doh! But it works! I like this length a lot.

the pattern instructs turning up 1/4" then 3/4". 

I did a narrow hem.

I kept the additional waist room from my FBA and based on that additional space, I added 1" on the fold for the front skirt. I then chose a spot (kind of randomly, honestly) and marked it both sides of center. I did a very light gathering between the two marks. I did not like the idea of just easing the skirt in.  

Once the front skirt was attached I basted the side seams. I am pretty straight from the front and needed a little waist definition. I took it in about 3/4" on each side starting from about 2" below the armhole to the front horizontal seam.

On my muslin, I noticed the back neckband was really, really round. It was tough to sew. I will have to wear it a couple times likely to really get what's wrong with it. I'm thinking the neck/shoulder fit on Grainline just doesn't work for me. I believe it's meant for a more erect back; the shoulder seam is WAY back on me and I do not have forward shoulders. I also want to pull it away from my neck repeatedly. Eh. I am not sure I'll be using the pattern again. 

But I do like THIS dress! 

The fabric is (an expensive!) tencel chambray from Treadle Yard Goods in St. Paul. Lastly, maybe it's evident in the pics how low the armholes are? It's always an issue when a pattern has a sleeved and sleeveless option with the same bodice. The armholes need to be raised for sleeves so getting out of the dress is a challenge! I noted this on IG when I muslined it...but then I didn't think I had enough of this fabric to cut sleeves so I didn't adjust the armhole. Sigh.

just barely made it!

Part of this frustration, admittedly, is due to pulling out the True Bias Lander pants, looking at this front crotch curve and NOPE'ing the whole idea. True Bias Ogden - fantastic pattern. I hate I waited so long to try it. These pants? n.o.p.e. 

Someone's crotch is shaped like this...but mine isn't.

So I've given up on the Landers and am sewing another pair of Birkin Flares with some tweaks (including a button fly!). 

I think my overall feelings on the Felix are neutral. You all know I'm a Big4 / Burda fangirl. I know there are good Indies; I don't dispute that. I think that so many of them are based on the owner's body type and it doesn't translate well to creating sewing patterns for the masses. No pattern will fit all of the bodies; I TOTALLY get that -- But so many of these companies are just too specific in the body type they draft for. And I just don't have the patience (or budget!) to gamble repeatedly.  

I'm not confident I'll use my awesome paisley fabric on the Felix this fall. But I will wear this Felix dress because I think it's pretty darned cute on me.

July Wrap-up and August Plans

I cannot believe how fast this year is flying by. I cannot believe how quickly this month passed! It was just my birthday! Eesh!

Well, I certainly made up for a non-sewing June. This month, I sewed 16.5 yards.

• New Look 6507 dress - 3 yards
• print rayon challis
• elastic
• Vogue 9238 dress - 2 yards
• black and ivory Ponte, knit print
• Butterick 6330 dress - 2 yards
• print double brushed poly
• elastic
• Butterick 6330 dress - 2 yards (awaiting hemming)
• black rayon jersey
• elastic
• Burda 8/2012 pants - 2 yards
• black cotton sateen
• zipper, elastic
• McCall's 7780 top - 1.5 yards
• ivory cotton/linen blend woven
• d-rings
• Vogue 1522 pants - 2 yards (to be reviewed)
• navy Telio jockey ponte (this fabric is seriously amazing)
• elastic
• Grainline Felix dress - 2 yards (to be reviewed)
• blue tencel chambray

Favorite: Ooh. I had a good month. Nothing was "perfect"; whatever that means. Every thing had it's niggling issues. But I am pretty happy with most everything I sewed this month. I'm going to go with the Butterick 6330 dress as it was literally exactly what I've wanted in a summer dress.

Fails: Nothing went terribly wrong this month. As you may have read in my last post, I made a lot of silly mistakes when making M7780, but the top worked out great!

Accomplishments: Nothing stands out this month...perhaps the fact every single one of these items was basted, adjusted/tweaked, before final sewing. This may sound like a no-brainer but this is NOT something I've done routinely!!

This month, I purchased 9 yards of fabric: 5.5 from Mood - sewed 2 yards this month and 3.5 from SR Harris and sewed 1.5 this month.

For the year I'm at 206.5 in and 98.5 out. I purchased 32 (yikes!) cuts of fabric when I went to NYC/PA. I've sewn 5 of them. In my defense (haha), I bought fabric for fall primarily. And quite a few shirtings for the stash. I have plans this summer/fall for 9 cuts of that fabric and the remaining 4.5 yards from this month. Fingers crossed?? :)

I purchased 4 patterns this month. I'm officially over my goal of 18 for the year (19 purchased)...and there are 4 of the new Vogue's on my list. I tried. LOL!

-The Paco pattern is similar in neckline to a Burda from 11/2017. I like them both but want a fall dress. This pattern looks like it has an extended shoulder and dropped armhole so not readily able to take a sleeve. But I'd have to look at the pattern. I want a fall dress and will not be making a dress with this zipper and amazing lines to be covered up with a jacket!

-The Badgley Mischka is so neat! I just love it.

-The Tracy Reese wasn't on my radar until someone posted the back of it - gorgeous! I can do without the chain in front and that length won't work for me, but otherwise, I really like this one. 

-Okay, this is a quirky pattern, the Kathryn Brenne, but it's cool! I think it can be a fun top in the right fabric and I'd probably skip the buttons down the back or match the color to the fabric.

Honorable mention to these, I like them but don't need them:

I like this view of Tilton's 9332

My daughter likes 9330 but I don't need to spend $5 for this pattern IMO.

I love the shape of 9329 and the lines; may end up getting it later. Maybe. 

I don't love the handkerchief hem.

This view of 9327 is SO pretty. Swoon. 

Aside from the giant flutter sleeve on view F and the circle cut-out in back (easily remedied by cutting a full back), This dress and it's sleeve options are really nice. I may get this one. We'll see.

For August, I really want to stick to my plan. Fingers crossed. Some more. LOL!!!

I have the Burda 4/2018 trench mostly traced out. I really want to get this done this month. We're already having several 60-65 degree mornings (52 degrees this morning!!) and by September, I'll likely need a light jacket in the a.m. (and then it'll be too warm by afternoon. sigh.)

Butterick 6562 for my mom (I should have done this awhile ago. oops!)

McCall's 7547 to round out my casual pant needs

 

And I hope to get the Burnside bibs sewn!! 

I'm going to plan to do my mom's top first, then the pants, then the bibs then the trench. Again, I know you're thinking, that's nothing for you! :) I am traveling one weekend and have visitors another...plus, a whole, entire trench coat?!?. 

Eek! Wish me luck (fingers crossed?? :-p )

McCall's 7780: Just Keep Sewing

I saw this pattern and went completely ga-ga. I actually love most all of the variations! View D is far too long but the other 3 are so cute.

I wanted a cool white summer top!!! I had a cut of white handkerchief linen in stash - or so I thought. When our sewing group met up at Sewing Lounge I was considering buying the linen for a Burda top and ended up going with a cotton lawn. Once I pulled it out the fabric, I decided it wouldn't really work for the McCall's top. And THEN I saw the call for contributors on the Sewcialists blog for "Sew Style Heroes" and decided I needed ivory fabric and to SR Harris I went!

I checked in the linen section, but no dice. The Burnsville location of SR Harris is slightly more organized than the main location and lots of stuff is actually labeled. I grabbed this bolt and it just said "lightweight woven". It had a linen-like weave and the weight felt pretty good. I took a chance and grabbed 2 yards...figured $12 wasn't too much of a gamble. When I got home I did a burn test and huzzah! It's either linen or a linen/cotton blend. The two perform very similarly in the test...but I also have a hard time believing it's 100% linen because they'd label it as such and it'd cost more.

Either way, it came out of the dryer wrinkled as all hell but presses very, very well and was a joy to sew (and press!!).

love.

The pattern is size 14. Because of the loose, oversized fit I didn't do an FBA but instead cheated a bit by adding some length at CF grading to nothing at the side seam. I did a swayback adjustment but I'm not sure if it helped much :)

I did not take into account how the top rests on the arms. Mine strains but look at the photo! It strains a bit on her too! doh. I also think that the shaping from the cut-on sleeve to the body is too tight of a curve.

Why 'Just Keep Sewing'? I got to the point of attaching the peplum and ruh-roh... I had sewn the front and back together right side to wrong side. I decided to unpick the CB seam because it's the back! Oh boy. Because the shoulder seam and underarm/side seam were already sewn and serged, it was actually the front that needed to be changed. So I had to resew the CB seam and open up and resew the CF seam. OY!

Got that fixed, got the peplum attached, basted my straps in...what the...that's weird that the front peplum is so long...WAIT A MINUTE!!!!

I'd decided to use D-rings - I actually thought they were included on the pattern until I saw a finished version and realized they were ties - and so the direction mattered. I'd basted by machine so I had to unpick those stitches and reverse the straps. I sewed my tag in...onto the front facing. I had to unpick that too. Once I was certain that I'd actually sewn the top correctly, I washed it and it came out of the dryer a MESS. It was so wrinkled and the seam between the top and the facing was unraveling. I'm not sure I had that happen before. I definitely don't want to serge it because the serging may show through. I will try pinking it. It took me forever to iron it and it will likely never see a w/d again. I don't dry-clean much but there are a few items in the wardrobe that I won't deal with.

WHEW. Sometimes you just have to persevere! I'd love to sew the 'drapier' version and I love the flouncy sleeved one too. Decisions, decisions.

This top was already planned and then catapulted to the top of my sewing queue for my contribution to the Sewcialist blog. Watch that space to learn more about my 'Sew Style Hero'