Vogue 1323: Slowish Sewing

This was a "slow sewing" project...slow for me. I started cutting Wednesday evening and it was basically done Saturday night. I swear I was going slowly! :-p

I saw this fabric on FM and legit lost my mind. I placed this order August 6. That was my first Fabric Mart order since May 22. I usually buy enough fabric and rarely extra. I bought 5 yards. FIVE. The only other fabric I've ever bought in this yardage is black ponte. And FM being FM, they sent me about 5 2/3 yards. Gah. I think I've convinced at least 10 people to buy this fabric. LOL!

I started with my normal Big4 sizing; 14 neckline and shoulder and a 16 for the rest. Well - sometimes I do a size 14 and an FBA. Other times (like with knits), I grade out. With patterns like this, where it's fitted in the shoulder but otherwise a loose fit, I will grade out and just do a smaller FBA than if I cut a straight size 14.

I did a 3/4" FBA and kept the dart created. I did a 1/2" slash and spread on the back piece adding 1" at the hip...I could have added a little bit more. I also made my standard 1" full bicep adjustment. I've made the mistake before of looking at the bicep measurement and thinking, that's totally big enough! The finished sleeve was 16" or 16.5" for the size 16. My bicep measures about 14" and that's plenty of ease, right?? BUT, I would lose the intended fit if I didn't do the adjustment.

I have some drafting books I recently checked out of the library. I realized I am truing the grain line incorrectly or something when I adjust my sleeve. I think that's the cause of my sleeve twist over all these years! I remember when I muslined that Burda jacket and the unadjusted sleeve had no twist but the adjusted sleeve did. I'll be working on that.

 I just adore gathering into back yokes. Adore.

Another recent realization...I have used Pellon interfacing the entire time I've been sewing with no problems. The last time I bought multiple bolts (I usually buy 2-3 at a time) I went to pick up the order and really should have just returned them. It was not packaged like normal. It literally was interfacing wrapped around cardboard with plastic wrap wrapped around it! I was complaining about having issues and realized it's only been since I've been using THAT Pellon.

I ordered several types of interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply knowing I have some plans for fall for silk and silky tops. On this blouse, I used the ProSheer Couture Elegance in white. The $9/yd has made me bypass this interfacing but boy oh boy! It is really good. I followed the instructions and it fused perfectly. Also, this interfacing is 60" wide vs Pellon's 20"...so 1 yd = 3 yd of Pellon; a bit more comparable when you think of it that way and SO much nicer.

I posted this on IG during construction...look at how CRISP that cuff is!!

The pointed front placket was a bit fiddly and it did NOT turn out for me. My bottom buttonhole is not functional. I can get it on and off without unbuttoning it at all; much easier to get it off if at least the 1st button is undone.

The reason I changed the front tab...and it's still wonky just less wonky.

Soooo yeah. LOL!!! Your sewing can still be beautiful even when it isn't! :-p

The stitching on my bands is a bit wobbly. It should finish at 1" and in some places it's 7/8" and in some just over 1". Oops. Also, I had to redo the topstitching in a few places because it was so wobbly on the inside. 

But I LOVE IT!

The pattern finishing is lovely. Of course they don't recommend the 'burrito method' but that's how I finished the yoke. Everything else is finished with French seams. The armhole was STRESSFUL!!!!!!!!!!!!!! But the 2nd one went in much easier and faster. Whew! That's the first time I've ever done that.

I want to hug my cuffs...

This fabric was A DREAM to sew and press. To cut, I used Best Press to stabilize which worked really well and especially for the small pieces - pockets and flaps, collar, bands. After I finished it I washed it to remove the stabilizer; the challis is just as flowy as it was before! 

I have my Burda 8/2018 tops photo'd and the blogpost ready but I documented every single step of this process on IG and so it had to jump the blogpost line! :) 

It was HOT AND RIDICULOUSLY HUMID out when I went to take pics and like 60% of them, my face looked like this:

so angry. lmao!!!! 

 Lastly (there's more! LOL!), I saw someone style a short, skinny scarf and thought it was so cute. Then I did some Googling and found one on Target. I went to look at their dimensions and they had it listed as 48 feet (L) x 4.5 inches (W). Uhmm. Pretty sure it wasn't 48 feet so we're gonna assume they meant 48" / 4'!

I was cleaning up and saw a scrap (doubled) that was about 30" long. I cut a rectangle as wide as possible and 25" long. I sewed the entire thing with 1/4" seam allowance, angling the ends 2". The finished dimensions are about 49.5" x 3" and I LOVE IT!!!! I wore it today and think it'll be great for fall.