G.O.O.D.B.Y.E. 2018!!!

bleh.

That's how I feel about this year. Not that there weren't high points; but there were many, many, many lows. I am so over it. AND, I'm finishing out the year with the timing (I believe) on my machine suddenly going wonky on me and my old machine isn't working well.
So now I'm super cranky.

I haven't been reading blogs but I have seen the year-end posts rolling in, and it's one of my favorite times of year! It'll be nice to sit down and go through them all tomorrow :)

The big numbers!

• 141.5 - Yards sewn
• 78 - Garments sewn
• 239.25 - Yards purchased
• 33 - Patterns purchased

Somewhat interestingly, I sewed 39 garments Jan-June and 39 garments Jul-Dec! A lot more than last year (50) but last year I spent a few months not sewing because of my hand.

-Only 3 of those items were gifts - oops! :-p
-12 items that were wadders, fails, or ended up not working like I'd hoped and I have 1 actual UFO
-I sewed 6 garments specifically for events

I lost enough weight that I get why I had so much trouble with garments last year! I should have been sewing a size larger in most things. There are quite a few things that were purged this year and only a few that I am committed to altering.

	2015	2016	2017	2018
Chest	37	38	39	36
Bust	39.5	40	41.75	39.5
Waist	34.25	34.5	36	32.5
Belly (navel)	36.25	39	40.5	36
Hip	44.5	44.5	46	43.5

Alrighty! Charts!! Yay!!!

• Me and the tops. Eesh. 9 of them are out either because of fit, fabric, or just realizing I didn't like it much. That's 25%!  There were quite a few patterns I made multiples of too.
• I had 2 dress FAILS. Remember Butterick 6551? I also hated the way the color blocked New Look 6301 turned out. I have a couple other dresses that didn't make it primarily due to fabric. I have one UFO because my stitched neckline was just HORRIFIC.
• I made 7 pair of pants and 2 of those were for events/more one-time garments. 1 wadder, 2 that are too big and I'm unsure if I'm going to alter them. And one pair that's too big but I WILL alter them (Vogue 1522). So yeah, that category was kind of a bust.
• 7 skirts and so many sad faces. The trench skirt just doesn't work. I love it but it's high waist and I find it hard to wear (maybe it'll be easier in spring?), but I'm also thinking it's going to be too big. My Style Arc Mindi is too big (wah). But SUPER big win on my Butterick 6464 black mini and the In House Patterns mini skirt that's waiting for pics.
• I made 1 cardigan and didn't like it much (Ottobre)
• My wonderful navy Burda coat (YAY!) and my black alternative to the Clare coat. I had this in UFO territory but there's no way I can fit it. I'm going to pull it out just in case...but I recall it being somewhat looser than I liked when I made it.
• I made a host of garments for sleepwear and loungewear that are well-loved.

Not surprised by Burda mag / McCall's being the highest. I AM surprised that I made so few Simplicity patterns. They used to be a huge favorite. 

Indies sewn were:

1. True Bias Ogden x2
2. Grainline Felix
3. Baste & Gather Birkin Flares (wadder due to fabric)
4. Style Arc Mindi
5. In House Patterns New York Mini

This is kind of a "throwaway". I realized I'd made A LOT of jersey knit items so I filtered by fabric to check it out. I included the pie chart because as you can see, about half of my garments were knits! (this didn't cover all 78 garments; just the major types).

My favorite garments this year may be surprising as some of them are things I FUSSED about!

First up, and not photographed (for obvious reasons), the 4(!) versions of the Gertie B6301 slip. I made 4 nightgowns and they get a workout! I love them!!!
Despite the ill-fitting bodice, that M7745 makes me happy every time I look at it!
I wore the Grainline Felix A TON this summer. I reached for it very often!
Butterick 6378 is such a nice blouse; I made a second one that still needs to hit the blog.
M7465. Swoon. This was a perfect marriage of fabric+pattern.
B6330 because it was just perfect. I wore this at least one day of the weekend like, every weekend after I made it! DBP is out for me though unless I'm making something that I intend to be warm.

This white tee was just another of those "this is super awesome because it's exactly what I wanted!"
My winter white mini is EVERYTHING!!!  That new Butterick? 6621? I am cutting out the 3rd version (yeah). My V1323 top was my 2nd most liked IG pic (behind the Style Arc/Mimi G dress!)
B6464 is another basic that just makes me happy! And finally my wool melton coat that got me through most of the early days of winter.

And an honorable mention to this 2 year old UFO! M7392 was started in 2016 and I got it to the point of needing buttons/buttonholes and belt carriers. EVERYTHING else was done, topstitched, etc...but I couldn't fit it. At all. I'm so glad I hung on to it!

AND I made two quilts!

LIVES on our couch! <3

This was a gift for a new baby in the family

That's enough for now!  I'll be back in a couple of days to discuss the goals/plans I made for 2018 and to set out goals for 2019!

Thank you all for your lovely comments on my last post. :-D

Have a SUPER FANTASTIC AWESOME NEW YEAR!!!

Style Arc / Mimi G. Maya Dress

I don't have "typical" finished project pics...so you'll just have to take my word that it fits well!  Let's just start at the beginning, shall we?

I knew I wanted to make a dress for this 50th Bday bash we were attending. I don't really have any party dresses -- I have a couple that are suitable for work events -- but nothing for fun.

I went back and forth on this one y'all! I was like, but is it too much for me? I think it's me, but is it ME?? (that has to make sense to someone beside me!)

"But it's pretty covered up aside from the cutout..."
"Okay that front is too low..."
"Well it DOES have sleeves...maybe I can make it an inch longer..."

Then I went back and forth on the size chart. Style Arc tops have worked well for me; I have been able to sew a size 12 with no FBA! And so I ended up tracing a size 14. Why? I don't know why. If I normally wear a size 12 and it's been a minute since I've sewn a SA pattern AND I've lost weight...why on earth...never mind!

I made a muslin, it was enormous, and I had to retrace the pattern in a combo 10/12 (10 for the shoulder, 12 for the rest). :face palm:

Along the way, I decided that I didn't like this pattern. I didn't like how the front seam was almost complete vertical (but it works!).

I really did not like how the back seam was also completely vertical - there's a CB seam, a zipper, but not shaping?? And interestingly, there IS shaping below the zipper to fit the bum.

I almost added a back waist seam but instead of doing a swayback adjustment, I added some shaping to the upper back. I also sewed up the center front seam about 2.5". I needed to wear a bra! Lastly, I did a 1" full bicep adjustment. I was still on the fence on whether this was going to work. It's so fitted! It's so...so exposed!! :-p 

I got excited about it when it got to this point:

And held my breath and said a tiny prayer before trying on the dress and THEN it was love!

Wait! Let's backtrack a tiny bit!

The fabric. I wanted my beloved Telio jockey ponte for this dress. I couldn't justify nearly $40 with shipping and then when I finally decided, what the heck, I was worried it wouldn't arrive in time. I've seen a couple people rave about the Refined Ponte at JoAnn and decided to give it a shot. 1) "My" JA sucks. I avoid going in there (why I have a Club BMV membership for 5 years running!) and 2) My JA sucks and I did not have time to end up in line behind the fleece'ers and quilters. I placed an order online for pickup in my local store.

The regular price is $24.99 (never pay this) and it was on sale for $9.99. I could do $20...Well there was an additional 20% off coupon. It did not work on the website but it worked in the app! Huzzah! So I got 2 yards for $15.98. WIN! (We don't have tax on clothing here and fabric yardage counts as clothing)

It washed well but I immediately felt the difference between it and the Telio jockey. This feels reallll borderline scuba knit to me (I cannot with the scuba knits). It has a tiny bit of a sheen. It is not bad but when it's sitting next to the Telio, you can tell. It's much heavier and spongier too. I probably won't buy it again.

*****

Okay so now I have my pattern cut out in the correct size. I AGAIN am going back and forth --I never hem and haw this much over any project-- on lining for the front. In the end, I used self fabric. Though the fabric is thick, I think it worked well for me!

Because Style Arc instructions kind of suck all the time sometimes, I thought only the CF was lined and thought it was odd that the side front wasn't but shrugged and kept going (I still am not 100% sure if it's lined or not!).

The bodice band and facing are sewn together to the bodice, facing under stitched, then the other seam burrito'd. Nice and clean.

my back facing is off because I sewed up one side and down the other. oy.

The shoulder seam is finished cleanly as well. The only place I'd known this finish was on cowl necks and that's the way I always refer to it...like you sew a cowl! :)

IDK why the back facing and front facing don't match

In true sewers fashion, I finished this dress Friday evening at about 6 p.m. We were getting up at 3:30 a.m. Saturday to hit the road. Oy vey!!!

I bought these teal suede pumps on about 5 years ago for $15 and I've gotten my money's worth 10 times over! I love them!!!

It definitely looked best with heels - didn't work IMO with boots - but, winter. I figured we'd be going car to venue; venue to car and I could survive with some cute tights.

I have to admit...I felt pretttttty snazzy that night! 

Lastly, I have to give Style Arc it's due. I have never, ever, never sewn a mitered corner. I have never understood instructions for them and had pretty much given up until I could have someone show me in person. Well, this pattern taught me. Kinda.

The pattern is drafted such that you fold at the notch and stitch along the line at the included 3/8" seam allowance.

I was AMAZED when I turned it out and got this:

AMAZED!!!!!

And it still took me a few tries to understand what was happening :-p

step 1: hem allowances marked. Short diagonal line is the fold line. Long diagonal that I'm pointing to is the stitching line.

step 2: fold and stitch

step 3: trim, clipping the corner (like you would for any point)

step 4: turn it out (I personally never poke or grab corners. I put my thumb inside, making sure the two edges fold into the space created by the clipped corner, and using my index finger, push it out. Sometimes you have to give it a wiggle!)

step 5: press...

step 6: ooooh la la! admire your fantastic corner!

So now that I can miter corners, I am pretty much a sewing ninja. Yeah so... Ha!!

I have other unreviewed stuff, just sewed a pair of pants over the past few days and will be starting on my In House Patterns mini skirt tomorrow...the Lisette Butterick jacket after that (they're from the same fabric). Then I'm going to sew the ponte blazer from Burda 1/2019.

That sounds like a lot but I have ALL THE FREE TIME! I'll be home alone Friday-Monday so there's going to be some serious sewing. :)

Until later!

Butterick 6464 Ponte Skirt

I am so behind. Whine! Beware, not-so-good photos ahead! They will have to suffice.

Isn't it funny how really simple/basic garments can allude us? I have wanted a black mini for forever. I went back and forth on whether I wanted it to be knit or woven and after I sewed the Telio Jockey ponte for the first time, it was for sure going to be knit.

I ordered this from Fabric.com. I know I fuss about them but I end up going back because they have some lines that I like and their shipping policy is so favorable. Sighhhhhh.

This pattern is Butterick 6464, a Lisette pattern. I actually didn't care for the top or topper in this pattern and passed on it, even though I wanted the skirt. After looking around a bit, going back and forth on whether I'd just add style lines to an existing pattern, I ended up buying it. I think the skirt is worth $1.99!

It's a black skirt. I tried several times to take somewhat decent pics but it just wasn't happening.

 

I cut a size 16 and decided on a finished length of 17" and just shortened from the hem. I ended taking slightly larger seam allowances after basting but didn't want to go too far. Because the elastic is inserted into the waistband and then the entire unit is attached to the skirt, it's a little tougher to accurately gauge fit. I didn't want it too snug, because it's short, but didn't want the waist to feel loose. It turned out okay. The waistband could be slightly tighter but it isn't falling down or anything!

There is some really nice shaping in the back skirt IMO! I could have still done a small wedge, but otherwise, it fits nicely. Those aren't just style lines!

I would show you the pic taken before this laughing pic but it really does not belong on the internet! LOL! I am always snapping as I move around because I like catching candid shots (like the pic on the right!) But I was rubbing my eye and making THIS FACE!!!!! and it was just...oh my word. No on eneeds to see it! LOL!

 

Normally when topstitching, I just use a slightly bigger needle and two spools of thread through the same needle. I'd seen people mention using the triple stitch for topstitching.

Never. Again.

It turned out fine but it was so slow and time consuming, and I felt like I was sitting there for-everrrrrr (drama llama! lol!!!)

Work has been BUSY, I had a quick jot out of town, and then I lost almost the entire past week to a migraine. UGH.

I have another version of B6378 to review. I made the Style Arc / Mimi G collaboration dress for the party I attended, and I made M7812 which I hope is salvageable but if not, I may squeak out another version. 

I desperately need to clean my sewing room and plan out my sewing for vacation. And I need finish up my analysis of 2018 sewing.

WHEW!

This space will be busy! :)

Simplicity 8529

I was first 'introduced' to the Sew House 7 Toaster Sweater during Sew Camp this spring. One of the ladies sewed it up and it was SO cute. As I've watched them pop up on blogs and IG, I've gone back and forth on the pattern.

When the Simplicity version (there ARE some differences) was released, I figured I'd give it a shot and decide if I wanted the original (I actually like the original more). The funnel neck is the same on both I think and that was the feature I was on the fence about.

 

 It's okay...

I sewed view A in a medium and shortened it 3 inches (I'm not a big tunic person). I love this fabric and was hoping for a wearable muslin. I have really fantastic cut of off-white ponte and had high hopes. I think I'll have to save that fabric for another pattern. 

The fabric is a hacci sweater knit picked up for cheap from Fabric mart a ways back. I have "the same" (idk now if it really is!) fabric in a different colorway and was concerned because that one felt polyester-y and icky. This one is fine. 

Construction was straight foward. The collar is sewn like a lot of cowl necks are which gives a nice, clean finish inside.

 

I like the dropped shoulder and I like the funnel neck and I like the roomy, "sweatshirt" feel and I like the side slits...but I just don't like this.

When I finished it, I tried it on and KEPT tugging at the neckline. I knew it was doomed -- I do not wear fussy clothes. I got compliments though so I went ahead and styled it:

And again, liked it in theory, but wearing it was a different matter. Also telling? I finished it on 11/24 and haven't worn it yet. Sigh...win some, lose some.

In other news, I am COMPLETELY GAGA over the Butterick release! Woohoo!

Some patterns, even if they aren't necessarily special...they come along and they are exactly what you've been looking for!

I have a large wardrobe (duh) of toppers and have been leaning more towards my blazers/jackets than cardigans. 

 

My $10 Marshalls find has gotten quite a bit of wear already!

I squealed, for real, when I saw this pattern. Must. Have. It. I love the cut, the collar, the details (princess seams + those shaping darts in front/back neck + forward shoulder seam + 2-piece sleeve + welt pockets!)...I love that it's a Lisette pattern (all of the tops, dresses and jackets that I've sewn of hers, I've really liked), and it has cup sizing. I am crossing my fingers for a Butterick sale before my holiday break.

 

There was seriously so much to like for me in this release but I've been tempering myself with the pattern purchases.

Tilton tunic - I know, I'm not that into tunics, but I love the seaming and shape of this!!

*

Lifestyle wardrobe - I like the top and maxi dress...I like the mid-length version except for the curved shirttail hem...I don't really care for that hem style on dresses.

*

Another Tilton tunic - yeah, yeah...but it's awesome. Maybe I"ll get one or the other. Maybe.

*

This. Dress.! - I need this. I need view A and I need view B and I need view C! :)

*

Top options - you will have to pry the peplum from my cold, lifeless self...I also like the little tie front on the main view. I like that it has a crew neck and faux wrap option. Plus multiple sleeve options!

*

Connie Crawford tunic - Okay, I would shorten this quite a bit if I made it...but it is so interesting!! I've never sewn a CC pattern so I'd have to do some research on how the fit of her designs may differ.

That's going to break up my no-pattern-buying streak soooo I figured, what the heck. I've missed the last 4 Simplicity sales and snagged these 3 and this Style Arc (par-tayyyyy!). 

Hey, my last pattern purchase was in August. Not too bad! :)

In other news, I've replaced the KwikSew peplum in my plans with M7812. I just kept thinking of that pattern so I figured, why not!? It's all cut out and partially sewn.

I have Z.E.R.O. things that I'm doing Friday/Saturday. Okay, I may clean up a little on Friday...but otherwise I am going to Chill and Sew. And Chill!!

November Wrap-Up & An Unintended Sewing Tool

Another month with ZERO fabric purchases! Woohoo! I haven't purchased any patterns either.  I sewed 9.5 yards (total out for the year is 157.25 though I'm still way off because of the NY/PA trip. I have 222 yards in this year. Darn it.

This month I sewed:

• Vogue 1595 dress - 1 7/8 yards
• grey and black chevron sweater knit

• Butterick 6464 skirt - 3/4 yards
• black Telio jockey ponte 
• elastic

• Vogue 8597 top - 2 yards
• plum (puce?) lightweight sweater knit

• McCall's 6796 top - 1 yard
• light grey ribbed knit

• Simplicity 8529 top - 1 5/8 yard
• black/grey/white print hacci knit

• Butterick 6378 top - 2 1/4 yards
• blue poly(?) chiffon with painted(idk, it has some texture!) abstract print

Favorites: I have to say the Butterick skirt. I have wanted a black mini skirt for FOREVER. I made it pretty short too, 17", but it's so perfect with tights. And the Telio ponte is fantastic.

FAILS: Ehhh I'm not so sure about the S8529 top. I like the original Toaster sweater more but wasn't sure about the neckline on me and decided to try the cheaper option first. It's not bad but I don't love it.

Accomplishments: I chose this fabric (last December) and just loved the color and the print. Did I even think, for one second, that I was buying POLYESTER CHIFFON ?!?!? NO! I wanted to cry, roll my eyes, throw it in a corner, set it on fire at various points during construction. But I looooove this top. And of course, I feel like this took *forever* but based on my photo album I started it last Sunday or Monday. :)

Next up...Hanging around on IG, I'd seen references to the Zozosuit. It's a body measurement suit + app designed for a custom clothing company. But that's an awesome product for sewers too!! 

So, I know the name of it and I know that the suit was free and I paid $4 for shipping. And I have an iPhone. But that's it. Sorry but I can't really answer any deep questions about it. There's ton of info on various sites (YouTube, Reddit, etc)...check it out.

I ordered on 11/23 and received it on 12/1. I immediately set everything up even though my house was pretty dark. I used my tripod but it has instructions to use an included (cardboard) stand and a tabletop. And it is indeed meant to be at approximately waist height. I had to lower my tripod vs when I normally take pics.

The suit has tons of dots (there are dots within the white dots) and using what is actually pretty simple technology, it scans your body via the app - aka it takes photos of you directing you to turn clockwise and snaps a photo each time. It tells you to stand 6.5 feet from the camera and directed me to move forward or backward as necessary. It takes 12 images and in just a few seconds delivered the measurements. 

Here are my measurement results:

There's an option for "more info" and includes a couple extra measurements.

I found the bust and waist(both) measurements to be off for me about 1-1.5". Every other measurement that I normally track was spot on! Biceps, thighs, hips and neck. Someone asked if my dots were level and ahhhhh! I bet that's it! You'll notice that the measurement line is slanted for those that are off. I'll do it again another day when I have time (and appropriate lighting).

I am unsure what the "bust" measurement is on the chart. When measured with measuring tape, my high bust is just under 36" and my under bust is just over 33". I am leaning towards it being underbust and measuring slightly higher for the same reason the bust, waist and low waist is.

I'm not exactly sure what I did to cause such a discrepancy in my arm lengths! LOL!!! My right arm is bent compared to the left so that's something else to keep in mind.

Hey! That totally looks like my body! 

Tilted pelvis?

I'm excited to use this as a sewing aid. Especially since I'm still dropping weight slowly. I can just pop the suit on and get measurements quickly! Woohoo!!

I'm not doing a specific December plan. I am still(!) working on my original plan (B6378 wasn't on there officially but I've always known I would make another and the fabric called to me!). Also, I only have to work 14 days in November! :) After the 21st, I'm off until after New Year's Day. And I've always managed to get some serious sewing done!!