2020 -- The Hits!

I mentioned in my last post on my misses that I made 1.5 of my 9-square: Loungewear and I made a jumpsuit:

Loungewear: McCall's 7061

All made from M7061 (I'm wearing the heart-print top RIGHT NOW!). This is SUCH a good pattern.  The heart cotton jersey was a great pick from Fabric Mart long ago. The unicorn print, not so much. JoAnn Doodle knits. Meh. I still love the garments and wear them so, so often.

I still need to make a "real" version of the cowl top. It fits so nicely.

Jumpsuit from McCall's 8028 in a distressed french terry also from Fabric Mart. I wore this a ton this summer. Especially since post-reduction I don't need a bra for support. 

Here are 5 garments that I'm most proud of this year:

1. Butterick 6183

I scored this bit of silk twill from a remnant bin at SR Harris. I bought it to use as the cuffs for my lace hoodie (posted below) and realized I could cut this TNT from the <1 yard of fabric. Once I realized it was silk, I decided to make it worth it! I added some decorative trim in the horizontal seam and an exposed zipper and really, really love this make for the care put into it. 

2. Burda 1/2020

I loved the idea of this woven hoodie and when I decided to make it from lace well...swoon. I also had that lovely silk twill that I used for the cuffs.

3. Burda 2/2020 

I thought I had more construction pics but, nope. I finished this up about a week and a half after covid cases started rising here and never wore it. But it's such a GREAT item! The construction is tops and I am so proud of it. It'll appear here soon!!

4. Burda 3/2019

this was technically before it was finished

While I haven't worn this much -- I ordered swatches of twill from Mood and then once during a sale, I jumped on this Rag & Bone twill and it isn't bad it's a bit too stiff. But the jacket itself is a piece of pride!!

5. Vogue 1507

This pattern is so cool!!!!! And I love this fabric (SR Harris). It's a lightweight sateen, it's a vibrant print, the construction was SO fun.

And here are my most favorite makes this year!

1. Simplicity 1945

I love this pattern. The first time I made it I used a loosely woven sweater knit and I was a new sewer and it was not well done. This hacci knit was well behaved enough to sew well and I have worn it a gazillion times!

2. Burda 5/2020

The day I got this issue, I traced this pattern off and started sewing it! I later made it in an Ankara cotton but love this black cotton voile version MORE. It fits amazingly well, it highlights my shape nicely, it has those interesting sleeves...ahhhhh.

3. Burda 4/2019

I wore this on my birthday and a million more times over the summer. I had a really fun time planning out the stripes and sewing up this large-scale plaid. It's a cotton voile from Fabric Mart. 

4. McCall's 7061 

It's such a basic but it was EVERYTHING to me this year! I have worn it more times than I can even begin to count. A basic for sure.

5. Simplicity 8389

I think this is mainly a winner due to the amazing Rag & Bone crepe from Mood. They're comfortable and practical but cute!

6. Butterick 6378

I just finished this up recently but this pattern is well-loved and this fabric is amazing and so yeah, winning combo.

7. Simplicity 9011

I just finished this dress this month but it was another pattern that I saw and immediately knew I had to have. I used a rayon jersey from Stylish Fabric in a *perfect* teal and I never want to take it off!

Ahhhhhh. Good year for sewing for me!

I'll be back to update with my sewing stats for the year :-D 

2020 -- The Misses

 Let's start with the failed, through no fault of my own, 2020 plans!

I sewed loungewear and one jumpsuit. Thanks Covid! :eyeroll:

I had a couple sweaters on the list in that blog post and then early in the year (*right* before Covid hit) I scored my knitting machine. I have a sweater that is mostly done (I dropped a stitch when rehanging for the collar and don't know what to do with it). I just can't hand knit anymore. My hands are unable. And machine knitting is an entirely hobby in it's own right and I am still learning. 

It's further along now!

Also, I set a fabric budget of $250 for the year. I spent $535! Obviously, "Failed" there but I am not too broken up about it. I spent WAY WAY WAY less than I normally do and even with my new Babylock serger, I spent less on sewing, overall, than the past 3 years. I'll take it.

I'll speak more on that in my "Hits" post because I sewed a good bit from stash (65% of my makes!)

So, the garments. Ahhhhhhh. I know it's popular to list 5 hits and 5 misses and I don't usually work to adhere to that. It's whatever the numbers work out to be! But this year, I have 5 misses to share.

1. Vogue 8772

excuse my dirty mirror and too-big jeans. LOL!

I usually muslin Vogue patterns because I find they fit a bit differently than the other BMV blocks for me. I muslined the bodice and fully intended to muslin the sleeve, and forgot. I added 1" (clearly not enough!) so while yes, the bicep is still too small, there's ALSO the problem of the relationship to the bodice (compared to my body).

I have finally accepted that I just don't care for chambray. I feel like I should but I have never really cared for any finished garments from it. I have one shirt that I really love now, after it's been broken in.

I still have the top because I want to love it - and think it would be a cute layering piece with some dresses - but we'll see. I may try the trick I use with denim garments that I don't wear often, washing the garment every time I do laundry, even if it's unworn.

2. Simplicity 8948

I actually completed it but never photographed it, so this is the best shot I have to show the style.

Sighhhhhhhhhhhh. This is a gorgeous pattern. The collar is beautiful! The pleats at the neckline, the front slit, the back closure (4 buttons, very elegant!), the loose sleeve gathered with elastic - love.

I used a polyester georgette. Why? Whhhhyyyyyy?!?! I can only surmise that I was done-in by the print. I sprayed it with Best Press starch and still had some issues with cutting out. Also, I did not adjust the hip and I should have known better. It goes straight down from the bust and my bust is a pattern size 14, hips an 18. Also, Covid-gain has made it too tight across the back. I am going to remake it!! I have a weightier rayon crepe and I know what adjustments to make. :fingers crossed:

3. McCall's 7476

I know I'm always gushing but, I was SO excited about this cardigan! SO EXCITED!!! And then I got near the end of the project and tried to topstitch the flapping facings and GRRRRRRRR. I don't know why I even faced it. I really should have known better and just bound it. This ribbed sweater knit was NOT cooperating. I've tried to fix it a couple times, with a couple of tricks, and now I can't be bothered to unpick the stitches again. I think about it ever so often because it's CUTE! But, ugh, I don't feel like it.

4. McCall's 7547

Another extreme disappointment. I saved this denim for awhile because it was the perfect yellow. Not too pale, not too "primary", not too bright...And then I didn't have enough for my TNT (Style Arc Sandra). I should have just held off but I went ahead and sewed it up. I had muslined this pattern before, intending to make the overalls from a black cotton twill, but never got around to it. 

The jeans were pretty tight when I finished them but fit fine a short while later. The rise was SO long. It was ridiculous. I don't remember my adjustments anymore, unfortunately, but I know I shortened the pattern in front because I always do. Also, I knew better than to use that straight waistband, that just isn't an option for me. 

5. Simplicity 8890

There's nothing wrong with it, I just don't like it and wish I'd sewn the Burda swing dress I was considering. The design choice -- relatively straight back piece with a sharply angled front piece doesn't work IMO. Also, the weight of the fabric kept pulling my drawstring, loosening the back! And the back is lowwwwwww. I didn't want to risk flashing people should it dip all the way down without me realizing it. It's in my wardrobe still but unlike to make the next cull. 

See how heavy it falls at the side seam? MEHHHHHHHHH.

I have 6 Hits for the year - favorite garments that were sewn this year, and another 5 Accomplishments - garments with construction that makes me so proud. So the next post will be a monster one where I discuss those 11 garments!

Then, I will dish on my overall sewing statistics (yardage in/out, number of garments sewn, etc) for the year and finally, my plans for 2021. 

I know many have taken to social media for their primary discourse around sewing but reading yearly wrap-ups and statistics are one of my absolute favorite things :) Hopefully people keep posting, even if this year was a quiet one on the sewing front. 

Until later!!! 

Remakes: B6378 & S2369

As part of my build-a new-work-wardrobe plan, I wanted to get a few things sewn up because I have a LOT of video calls and have been bumming it most of quarantine. 

And you know my thoughts... when you need new things, in short order, turn to TNTs! I’ve made both of these several times and aside from removing my FBA on Butterick 6378, there are no material changes. 

The top is made from a rayon challis that I picked up from Stonemountain & Daughter when I visited San Francisco. I LOVE this fabric! The color scheme is so me; it’s very versatile and works with tons of bottoms in my wardrobe. 

My main adjustment to this pattern now is the 1” bicep adjustment and using whatever elastic I have on hand in the sleeves :) This time it was 3/8”. And I find such joy in the neatly finished binding! So glad my hands cooperated with me.

LOVE. LOVE. LOVE this top!!!

This version of Simplicity 2369 was made from a cotton jersey that I got from Mood. I like the fabric, I like the color, I'm not sure it was a great match for this pattern. I may stash this one away until spring. 

It's a little snug though I basted before sewing! (thanks pandemic), the color is kind of washed out on me, and I didn't like it with any of my boots. So maybe it'll fare better in the warmer months with heels/sandals. 

I also sewed this one by machine, serging after I sewed. I just find cotton knits to be thick even when they're lightweight and knew it would turn out better constructed on the sewing machine. 

The only other change from prior versions was using the buckle - hate it. I have decent scraps of this fabric and may just cut another tie and swap that out. It feels a bit outdated for me...we'll see!

tried here with a more casual boot and jean jacket. Eh. it's fine. 

Love the dress, I just don't think it's working for winter. 

Aaaaaaaand... After a wee-bit of consternation, I bought a new serger! 

For $1,000 I want a scrap catcher thingy! 
(those were out of stock too and my name is on the list. sigh.)

It's my new-job-gift to myself. It's a YAY! Our finances don't completely revolve around kids anymore! gift to myself. I was really going to go with the Juki MO-654DE; it's a really great machine. It is powerful and a lot of machine at the ($400) price point. 

I've been able to sew on Brother, Juki, Babylock, Bernina, Husqvarna-Viking sergers. Never tried a Janome or Pfaff (still want a Pfaff machine :drool:). I liked the Babylock - of course! My biggest ask was auto-tension - I KNOW everyone loves the air-threading and it IS cool! But I've never had issues with threading the serger. Before I bought this one, I timed myself (hey, I am a scientist at heart, everything is an experiment!) on my 1034D. 92 seconds. That's how long it took me from start to finish. It just wasn't a big factor for me in choosing a serger. 

After some research, I also decided the auto-tension was a nice-to-have. I just have to get to know my serger. I am on point about 80% of the time with my Brother. I've had it for so long (~8 years!), I've sewn everything on it, and I can judge the adjustments based on the fabric itself as I'm handling it. Like I said, most of the time, I'm spot on. Occasionally, I have to make additional adjustments after sewing a sample.

I tend to RESEARRRRRRRRRCHHHHHHHHH. Then, when I'm ready to buy, I'm READY. No doubts, both feet in. I wasn't fully ready but the pandemic has caused 1) some price gouging and 2) scarcity. I first visited the Babylock dealer in the summer, and they were running 6 weeks out for machines. Last Friday, she called and told me she had a Celebrate and can put my name on it and I said, YES! Then, I didn't call to finalize the order on Saturday because I didn't feel certain. But on Monday, I decided what the heck! Go for it! There's no rules! I can buy a different serger down the line if I choose! I can upgrade to another Babylock down the line if I choose!! 

I got it set-up and threaded, and ran some recent fabrics through it. I have a M6886 on my to-sew list and it'll be the Celebrate's maiden project! :-D

McCall's 6796 and Burda 12/2016

I actually finished these pants way back in March! Right after I made the navy blue pair in ponte. I wore them today with my new McCall's top so - yay! Photos of both!

Now vs. Then (and look at my 'fro!)

I really like this pant! Flat front, side zipper, straight/slightly tapered leg...easy to sew and wear! On the ponte pair I'd taken 3/4" side seams and sewed 1/2" side seams on this pair (seam allowance was 5/8"). 

I didn't make any other changes from the blue pair: size 44, removed 3/4" from the CF and added 1" to the crotch extension in back. I had some wrinkles at the thigh but they're far more pronounced in the suiting than they were in the ponte. I have to adjust the shape of that crotch curve. 

They are a little more tan than camel which makes them a bit less versatile in the wardrobe. Fabric is a wool suiting but I'm not sure where it's from. It's been in the stash for a bit.

M6796 is an older pattern. I'm pretty sure I sewed it in the first year or so after learning! I love the top though and it had details I wanted. I used the remnant of fabric from this dress (M7358: one of my faves!)

I cut a size 14 and did a slash and spread at the hip to add 1/2" in front (+1") and 3/4" in back (+1.5") for a total of an additional 2.5" at the hip. I did a 1.5" bicep adjustment -- I used the Singer method and did 3/4" on each side. Somehow, I thought it was supposed to be 3/4", undid it and changed it to 3/8" on each side. Aaaaaaaand, biceps were too tight. Where the sleeve hit made it look a little worse than it actually was (it was tight but not uncomfortable but it appeared too tight) so I added bands to the sleeves. It works!

Also, this fabric had a bit less stretch than I remembered. Like, I checked SEVERAL times to make sure I had cut the pieces in the right direction. So that didn't help the sleeve fit or the collar going in. It's a little rippled in front and on one side in back. Booooo. 

Oh! And when I remember to do it, I make a forward shoulder adjustment on tops and dresses and it makes such a big difference! I forgot this time. Ehhhhhhh.

You can see the shoulder seam sitting wayyyy back at the sleeve side vs. neckline. 

Will definitely update the pattern to fix that.

I liked this color combo together though I'd like it more of the pants were a deeper camel color but it worked and this necklace was the perfect way to tie it together. 

This week I said goodbye to my employer of 5.5 years (that's the longest I've EVER worked anywhere), and embarked on a new journey! Cleaning out my office was bittersweet and I know the transition was made just a tiny bit easier by being at home for so many months. 

There were some great people here and that fact (plus the <6 mile commute) kept me here longer than I should have been. My new company and position are both AWESOME! It's a fast-paced, high-energy org and I am really able to better use my skills, and I'll get some fantastic resume builders here (and make more money!). 

This (and I'm sure the bit of stress of leaving / starting anew) led me to BUYING ALL THE THINGS. I bought fabric (after JUST patting myself on the back for not having purchased since July). I bought stuff from Wawak (but I NEEEEEEDED that Gutermann thread chart!). I bought organizational bits for my Cricut stuff and my new workspace (hence the changeup of photo location and you now get to see the terrible structural decisions of this townhouse, LOL!). 

I ordered from Stylish Fabrics for the first time and will review once I've washed and sewn with the fabric. I will say that while it's a nice weight jersey, "heavyweight" and "ultra heavyweight" feel like misnomers. I'm not complaining though! I reserve the right to later :-p

Fabricmart had $1 shipping, which is basically free, and I saw this suiting, which I had to have! :)

It's a viscose/poly/lycra in a beautiful blue and black pinwheel (reads as houndstooth) pattern and feels lightly textured. I plan to make a dress from it!

The last time I almost bought fabric, this was in my cart.  It's a crepe knit but it's very lightweight and slightly translucent. I planned to make TNT M6886 and I know my black slip works with it so I may go forward with that plan. 

And this brocade suiting sealed the deal on the purchase. I was only able to snag 1 yard but, that's enough for an awesome skirt!

I just finished up another older pattern, S2892. This is one of the first patterns I ever bought (like, seriously in the first 20) and I sewed it back then (not well, LOL!) and wore it until I couldn't. I had to grade the pattern up to make it work (I did it though - yay!) and I'm excited to finish it.  

November Wrap-Up and December Plans

THIS YEAR IS ALMOST OVER!!!!! I had such little mo-jo and then...THEN, I struck out and landed a new job that I start later this month. The day I gave my notice, a huge weight was lifted and I find myself easily able to get out of bed in the morning, more focused throughout the day, not eating mindlessly, wanting to sew. Ahhhhhhh. 

This month I sewed 3 items and 5.25 yards

• Butterick 6378 top - 2 yards
• animal print rayon challis from stash
• elastic for sleeves
• McCall's 6796 top - 1.25 yards
• raisin/plum jersey from stash
• Simplicity 2369 dress - 2 yards
• olive cotton jersey
• 2" buckle

FAVE: It's got to be my TNT B6378. It's such a good pattern. The forward shoulder seam with soft gathers, the open neckline, the length, the sleeves...I just love it. Review to come for these since they've all been made before.

FAILS: Kinda, not really. But somehow I missed how little stretch the knit I used for m6796 had. It isn't uncomfortable but it is a little snug! I could have altered things while cutting it out if I had checked!

ACCOMPLISHMENTS: I undid my FBA on the Butterick pattern and the McCall's top. Also, with the Simplicity dress, it became evident that the better option was to sew the dress on the machine (vs. zipping it through the serger). And since I didn't have a good match for coverstitching, I did twin needle finishes and it turned out really nicely!

I did buy fabric this month. I almost got out of the BF/CM foolishness but then Fabric Mart had $1 shipping in addition to their sale. I picked up 6.5 yards of fabric and am very excited about them! I had a TON of stuff in my cart and then whittled down. So proud of myself! LOL!! This is my first fabric purchase since early July. 

I've purchased 94.5 yards this year and I've sewn 120.5 yards (85.25 from stash). 

Here are a couple sneak pics of the above items:

This month, I will be working on updating my work wardrobe some more! I will have lots of video meetings in the new role until we're back in the office and I want nice tops!! If my hands cooperate, I'd love to make another jacket. I'm going to preemptively plan to make an unlined knit blazer. I have 2 cuts of fabric that would work - a black wool double knit and an emerald green (lovely!) ponte. We'll see which I decide I need more :)

I have a couple more knit dresses planned. Simple ones that can do that "secret pajama" duty. Put together but super comfortable. 

A(nother!) M6886 in a green and black floral crepe knit. 

Burda 10/2018 in an olive & black striped sweater knit

I'm also considering this cardigan from the 11/2020 Burda but we'll see. It isn't my usual style so I'm not fully sold on it. But I like it! 

Burda Mag 4/2018

I finished this shirt awhile ago and while I love the idea of it, I'm not sure how useful it'll be in my wardrobe. It has cool features with the radiating darts, back pleat and full sleeve. But IMO that limits it's versatility. 

I used a size 40 neckline and 42 for the rest. I also did a slash and spread on the lower back piece to add to the back hip. The fabric is a cotton sateen shirting from SR Harris in a bright pink (the pics of it on me are more accurate on the color).

I've said it before but, I love constructing shirts and jeans but they're not items I wear often. DOH! 

Baste! Baste! Baste!! :)

Look at that topstitching! So satisfying!!

There was a lot of extra fabric in the back waist (I didn't get a before pic). 

I did a quick fix which really helped. It was MUCH worse.

I took out as much as possible without throwing things too out of whack. 

Ended up removing about 3/4" total at center back. 

Like the last Burda shirt I made, the sleevehead is just too much. I am pretty sure I used the right sleeve size for the shirt. I do a 1" full bicep adjustment but that doesn't affect the length of the sleevehead. The fabric perhaps didn't like being eased...IDK. I redid the sleeves a couple times but it's just so much excess that I kept checking to make sure it wasn't a puff sleeve!

I do like the lower sleeve design. There's a horizontal seam on the sleeve and the lower is gathered into the cuff.

The darts are the other star of this shirt. They look really great! I used a 1/2" silver button from stash.

Nice pattern, nice shirt, Not sure how often it'll be worn. Darn it. 

My other WIP? Eek! It's only based at the sides here but I don't think I have the room necessary to fit the hip and thigh area. 

I was so confused and then realized the other 2 times I made this pattern I used ponte and a springy crepe suiting with quite a bit of mechanical stretch. This is a 100% wool, tightly woven suiting. 

So now that's officially a UFO. 

I then started a full sweater project for myself. I did a few swatches and hit stitch count exactly and was a bit short on row count. I didn't know how to adjust the increases and decreases if I adjusted the length so I just made it as is. It seems like it'll *just* finish at my high hip. We'll see! :)

I kept forgetting to block my pattern pieces. Every night I'd have a DOH! moment. Finally blocked the sleeves and the front and back are currently blocked out. I need to seam the raglan at front and one side of the back, knit the neckband, rehang the sweater (hence the blue waste yarn) and attach the neckband and sweater. Then, I'll sew up the other raglan seam and stitch the side seams + sleeve seam. 

Woohoo!!! 

I'm hoping for sew-jo. I miss sewing but can't get motivated. Wah. Maybe have to push out a TNT. We'll see!

October Wrap-Up and November Plans

Gah. It just occurred to me, IT'S NOVEMBER! Sigh. I was excited on Sunday because, new month! new week! Daylight saving!

 

But the month is off to a meh start and of course, there's the absolute anxiety of the general election and the results. 

 

This month, I sewed 3 items and 5.5 yards. I didn't buy any new fabric (I almost did! Surge Fabrics had some nice waffle knits!)

• Ottobre 5/2018 sweatshirt - 2 yards
• pink ponte from stash
• Burda 4/2018 shirt - 2 yards
• pink cotton shirting 
• buttons
• New Look 6326 skirt - 1.5 yards (WIP)
  
• wool suiting and pongee lining
• zipper, buckles

Favorites: Meh. I think my general mood has zapped my sewing energy. Nothing is grabbing me right now.

 

Fails: The sweatshirt. I hate the color. I knew I hated the color, but I guess it was more of a wearable muslin because I figured I could still wear it around the house for lounging. It isn't wearable 1) because I abhor the color and 2) because I just haven't worked out Ottobre's fit on me yet and it fits weirdly.

 

Accomplishments: Meh. LOL! The shirt is nicely sewn and the skirt is coming along.

 

I'd be more excited about this skirt if I knew I'd be wearing it when it was finished :-p

I really wanted to muslin that jacket and jeans for my husband but didn't get around to it. Partially because my hand has been bothering me a lot lately. 

November? IDK. I won't make too many plans because who knows where my mental state will take me. But, here's a few recent screenshots of RTW that caught my eye. If I do sew, it'll probably be some warm/snuggly stuff, even if I don't really need clothes right now. 

I saw this "maxi hoodie" by Nike and thought it was cool, but then not so sure about procuring a long zipper that doesn't cost an arm and a leg. The shorter hoodie is kind of the alternative...in the same vein as those, this maxi dress with the stripes down the side is cool! That could be a fun project. I've also rewatched Power lately and one of the main characters, Tasha (Naturi Naughton) was wearing this raglan, colorblocked bomber and I thought it was cute so I might copy it. We'll see!! And, those jeans are just fun!!! 

I did work up a swatch for a sweater - I'm going to aim for a simple round-neck just to up my machine knitting confidence. And again, even if it isn't great, it'll be something I can tool around the house in.

This green ruler is a quick, instant way to check gauge. I was pretty aggravated that it was like $12 but, I like not counting stitches!

A swatch for a standard gauge machine means knitting 40 stitches by 60 rows and the ruler "counts them" instantly! So here, by lining the edge up with the left marker, we see that I am just under 27 stitches. The other side of the ruler has the row measurement.

Using waste yarn at the beginning and end is your marker for the rows and about midway through, you mark the stitch just outside of the 20th for easy markers for the stitches. It's a pretty slick process! Here, my aim is 29 stitches so I'd have to dial back the tension a bit. 

So, I suppose my plan for the month is to finish my skirt, knit a sweater, and stay healthy!

No-Go On the Mojo

I spent 2 weeks out in California with my daughter and son-in-law, and 12 glorious days in new grandma land. I was so glad that I was able to help out in those early days but it also meant NO sleep. It took me a long time to get my energy back! I know people have babies at 40 but goodness gracious I cannot imagine doing the sleeplessness now! Hahaha!

Couple that with not going into the office (most of my sewing is work wear) and fall breezing right by...meh. Oh, and that?! When I got back, I put away lots of summer stuff but not everything. On 10/9 it was 79F for a high. On Sunday, 10/18, the temp was 35F and it hasn't gotten above that since. BLERGH!

So I finally just went in the sewing room and got started on a project. Burda 4/2018 has been on the to-sew list for awhile. It's so interesting!! It's done and just needs photos. I will have to get them this weekend because this fabric practically glows with my phone.

Beth over at SunnygalStudio has made a couple iterations of this too!

I chose it 1) the pattern 2) nice, stable fabric 3) slightly more involved project. And I like it! And it fits nicely! But it didn't spark the mojo. 

So now I'm sewing a skirt. I was going to make another version of Burda 2/2020 but with all the seams, wasn't sure I had enough fabric for matching stripes. But I knew I had way more fabric than for just a straight skirt. Then I found these buckles in stash and got a little more excited. So I cut another NL6326

mock wrap skirt. Here's a prior version with the buckles:

I think this'll be a fun project and will "age" well in the wardrobe, even if it doesn't get much wear this winter. I'll be lining it in a black pongee.

I cut the waistband on the bias:

Lastly, mom and dad are doing well and adjusting to parenthood. The little one is doing EXCELLENTLY...still shunning clothing! :)