Burda 1/2021 #116

Because there's so much time to fawn over the Burda issue before it shows up in my mailbox, I often end up with a MUST MAKE NOW garment or two. This top? Yep. I knew I was going to sew this asap. It is SO my style! 

It's a simple silhouette - darted front, one piece back cut on the fold, with a slit front and a rectangle for a collar. It doesn't take much fabric but I was trying to make it work with a panel that was 1 yard (and I had a remnant piece from the other top I made from this fabric), it's a stashed piece, from Fabric Mart. 

I overlooked that the collar piece was cut on the fold and was SO confused as to how it would make a knot. Then, I read the instructions and realized the loop is a separate piece (not attached to anything) and went, :shrug: 

After cutting everything out, DOH! But somehow, some way, I found a piece that allowed for a mirror image to be cut - score!

From my IG stories

I cut my normal Burda size combo:

Front: Size 40 neckline, shoulder, armhole (I used to grade to a 42 here but that makes weird folds in the front) and then graded out to a 42 for the body.

Back: Size 40 neckline, shoulder, graded out to a 42 for the armhole and body. 

Because it's a knit, I can get away with that (armholes not matching) but on a woven, I'd cut the 40 and do an adjustment for the back for that extra fleshy bit back there (you know what I'm talking about!). I made the following adjustments:

1) When Burda does fitted, they do fitted. I straightened out the side seams a bit while grading the front from a 40 bust to 42 for the waist and hip. 

2) I did a 3/8" forward shoulder adjustment

3) I added 1" to the back (so 2" total) but then I did a 1/2" swayback (works *ok* when there's a fold) and trimmed the extra 1/4" off the center back side (so removed 1/2" there, making my overall addition in back 1.5"). 

4) I added 1/2" to the front at the hip for 1" and my overall total to the hip being 2.5. Sometimes I grade the hip out to a 44 and make a smaller adjustment but also, there is technically more room needed in back than in front so, put the fabric where it needs to be.

5) Not shown, I added 1.5" to the bicep. The size 42 was like 13"!!! Sheesh! 

I decided to wear this today for work while also telling myself I could get pics of it. And then I remembered right at 5:00. So the color is off on all but the mirror selfies. It's such a vibrant print!! 

Because I was using bits of fabric, I ended up centering the black space between the panels on my sleeve. I liked it more in my head than in reality but, it's fine. 

As you can see, the back fits a bit better than it would have had I not shortened the back length. 

Lastly, The loop is a loose (I sewed it by hand) and just holds the two end pieces together. 

Also from IG - look at my beautiful BabyLock stitches!

The slit is finished with a facing. I used a tricot, traced the stitching lines onto the interfacing, trimmed the sides and snipped to the point...it sits very nicely!!

Another hot tip if you're newer to adding seam allowances to patterns - after tracing off the facing, match it to your neckline piece. Sometimes, with curved edges or really angled ones, it's easy to go off a bit when drawing in those lines. 

It's REALLY cute with the ties left hanging too!!

The loop up close.

And that faint white mark on my sleeve is the wax marker from me marking the center, LOL! 

It'll come off with heat!

I think the loop is more trouble than it's worth (I don't remember the dimensions they suggested but I definitely made mine slightly bigger width and smaller in circumference) and I'd just lengthen the ties next time. I have a black & white polka-dot lightweight ponte that I'm considering for version 2.  

This issue is really, really awesome.  More to come!!

2021 Goals and Plans

For whatever reason, I can't get myself to commit to an actual "Make 9" plan but last year, I liked my little box o' 9 goals (even though I only achieved 1.5 of them) and when I wrote out my main plans for this year, it was 9 things! Hmm. I still won't call it a Make 9 plan because it isn't 9 garments, it's moreso 9 goals (again!).

• I guess I don't need a trench coat but my old is dead and I really, really want one. I have the fabric, lining, and notions for it already!

• I have accepted that I just love toppers. Cardigans, blazers, other jackets...and since I'm not having to like, store garments in the linen closet or anything...I won't beat myself up over having "too many". So I have 2 for SURE that I want to make. Burda 2/2020 (in a red/white herringbone wool suiting) and 6/2019 (in an irregular striped cotton boucle)

• I thought I wanted to make bras then was quickly disillusioned by the expense (I mean, $50 for a kit AND I have to sew it!!?!). Then I decided I was going to try it anyway. Then I realized I didn't like any of the patterns all that much. Then I had my reduction surgery and figured I'd just live in bralettes. Here's the thing about reductions (without any other reconstruction or implants) - you have less tissue but essentially, the same boobs! So the bra that has the right underwire and fits in the band doesn't fit well in the cups (so-called sister sizing has never worked for me. I cannot trade off band/cup size). A 36C is a little too snug around the body (I've started using an extender adding just 1 set of "loops") and the wire digs. But a 38C is too big period. A 38B definitely has wires that are too small, and on and on. And I have shallow breasts that are fuller on bottom (demi or balconette works best). So I have to do some research. And I have lots of supplies that were scored for cheap (Surge Fabrics!!) so I won't feel so bad about the experimental phase. 

• Still aiming to sew some of the silk stash. No specific projects right now, Just get at least 2 pieces sewn this year. 

• At least 1 machine knit garment per quarter. I am an adventurer and I like learning new things. But whew! Machine knitting has a steep learning curve when you start talking about actual garments. I am very excited though and a commitment to just do it will help. 

I had dropped a stitch on my sweater's neckline and didn't know how to fix it. (thank you Renee! I got it done!). Then I excitedly sewed up the last raglan seam and started seaming the side seams. And in my infinite wisdom (or impatience), I went to do my usual trying on and holding sides and contorting and...OMG I CAN'T GET IT OVER MY HEAD! Doh!

But the beginner machine knitting group and others on IG reminded me that I can do a cut and sew neckline and salvage it. YAY! This method is often used when you don't want to bother with neckline shaping (it's tedious and prone to error!). So I'm going to give it a shot because, what's the worst that can happen!? I'll be unable to not wear it more? Hahahahaha!

machineknittingetc.com (nayy) has lots of old knitting magazines free to download. Okay, there's some kookie 80s stuff but so many of these silhouettes are a) still awesome or b) back in style. Here are a few that I got excited about. 

So my commitment isn't to any specific item aside from the fact that it has to be a fully completed garment (not a scarf or hat or blanket). 

• Okay, so maybe it's odd that I'm adding travel bags when...Covid...but it's something I've wanted for *ever* and, why not? It's not like they'll go bad while they're sitting in my suitcase waiting to be used. I want to sew a laundry bag, a jewelry bag/pouch, and 5 shoe bags (2 for flats/sandals, 2 for heels/bulkier shoes, 1 for sneakers). Yeah, I know, but I often take 3-5 pair of shoes on ANY trip. It's a thing. I haven't decided if I'm going to go super basic or what. I may also find an awesome print - or - a plain cotton and decorate the bags with the Cricut. We'll see!!

example from West Elm 

• A blazer for my husband. I was going to bite the bullet and pay $69 for the velvet needle board from Mood then *poof*, it was gone, and says it isn't reordable. WAH! The fabric for his blazer is a mid-wale corduroy in a nice, cool blue. I'm excited, I think I'm just nervous it won't turn out. 

• I also want to sew jeans for him! He already has a tough time buying them, and then the current style is usually for a slimmer fit than he'd like. 

• A quilt for Bert. I did knit a blanket for him and they use it all the time <3 but I want to make him his very own, special blankie. Maybe add some texture. If they didn't live in a tiny LA apartment, I'd be sewing up a storm for him!!!

Other, general sewing goals include:

• MORE Burda! I sewed 19 or 20 Burda garments last year and yes, most were from prior years (only 4 were from 2020 issues and 1 from 2021-- I've already sewn 2 patterns from the January 2021 issue y'all!), I have so many patterns marked off as wanting to sew and they work well in general (I do need to figure out the sleeve fit for me on woven garments). 

• Continue to limit pattern purchases (which goes hand in hand with the above). I had a goal of $50 on patterns for 2020 and spent just under $55 and purchased 25 patterns. 

• Continue to focus on sewing from stash. 70% of my garments made in 2020 were from stash fabrics. That's pretty good! But I still purchased a lot. I want to get that ratio to 50% or better of in vs. out.

• Complete the machine knitting classes I've purchased (knitleader, sock knitting, using the garter bar,  and intarsia). 

Personal, life goals include: 

• Practice stress reduction

I'm a homebody and have felt fairly fine throughout quarantine. On advice of my therapist, I need to go outside daily--even if it's just for a 3-minute walk. I also need to practice mindfulness and am implementing some routines to help with that. I'm on day 3 of yoga practice and have a nighttime (attempt!) meditation routine (my brain never shuts up!).

• Clean up my diet for relief from inflammation/pain. I swear to goodness, my body said, "40? are we 40?!?! We're 40 now?!!!!! TIME TO GO HAYWIRE!!!!!" Haha! I did an elimination diet for a couple weeks and WOW, I felt so much better with no dairy and very little gluten. So, I suppose this is what responsible adults do, or whatever. :-p

• Read more. In 2019 I surpassed my reading goal and forgot to track for 2020. I went to the bookstore (IN REAL LIFE!) and they were having a sale so I have lots of new reads. I'm going to aim for 24 this year. 

I hope that this year is ALL that you wish for and MORE! 

Next up on my sewing table is this topper from (dun-da-dah!) Burda 1/2021. I'm making one for my daughter and for me! This should be fun!!

2020 Wrap-Up

I won't wax philosophical on the dumpster fire that is 2020. And true to form, the final day of the year turned out to be a bear. Sigh.

Onward.

• This year, I sewed a total of 132.5 yards and purchased 105.5 yards. Geez! Those yards add up quickly! 
• Of that 132.5 yards sewn, 93.75 (70.7%) was sewn from stash (older than 6 months). YAY! Now, my in/out ratio isn't great, but I did sew more than I purchased so, WIN.
• This year, I sewed a total of 84 items and 54 (64%) were sewn from stashed fabrics. 

Of the 84 garments sewn, I had:

• 10 wadders/UFOs (I don't have any requirements for myself that I sew up my UFOs. Some things are identified as wadders and discarded easily. Others, I'm unsure about and they may become wearable, but I don't revisit old projects often, it just isn't critical to me. Just keep sewing!) 
• Aside from 1 garment, all of my wadders were due to fabric. The 10th was a Burda dress that was a combo: the fabric wasn't right for the pattern but something was really off for me with the raglan sleeve fit.
• 10 garments for my daughter She found out she was expecting late January so it was mostly Jalie Clara knit pants and some tops for nursing. I also made her baby shower outfit <3
• 5 baby items

That leaves 59 items for meeeeeee!

• 29 tops (always my largest category, LOL!)
• 15 dresses (REALLY!?)
• 5 loungewear items
• 3 skirts
• 2 pants
• 2 shorts
• 1 jumpsuit
• 1 cardigan
• 1 jacket

Photo break!

Burda 11/2018 * McCall's 6796 * Ottobre baby sweater * McCall's 6886 * McCall's 7976 *

Butterick 5760 (skirt) * New Look 6150 * Simplicity 2245 * Simplicity 2246

True Bias Ogden hack * Ottobre baby gear! * McCall's 6886 * Burda 3/2011 * Burda 11/2019 * 

More Ottobre baby gear! (5 babies were born in our family this year) * twist front of McCall's 7975

Of the 84 garments sewn (which includes the wadders and garments made for others (I didn't separate out)

• I sewed about a 60/40 split of knits and wovens 
• Primary woven fabrics were rayon challis, cotton sateen, cotton twill
• Primary knit fabrics were jersey (rayon, poly blends, cotton, wool)
• I sewed from 11 pattern companies. As you can see, only 3 "Indies". I'm just not into the vast majority that I see, and often times I try and it's a pattern fail, so I stick to Burda and Big4. And yes, Jalie is an Indie! 
• 1 Burda envelope
• 1 Jalie
• 1 Kommatia (now Studio Calicot)
• 1 True Bias
• 3 Vogue
• 4 New Look
• 5 Ottobre
• 6 Butterick
• 14 Simplicity
• 19 McCall's
• 19 Burda Magazine

Y'all know how I feel about my Burdas! 5 of the 12 "wins" in my last post were from Burda. I got my January 2021 issue and already have a completed garment from it (and 2 more traced). Ahhhhh. 

I promise, if you're on the fence, go for it. It isn't so onerous once you've done it a couple times. 

This top is done now but at this point, it was awaiting side seams, neckline finishing, hemming...but the shape is SO perfect and the sweater knit is *chef's kiss* with this pattern! 

And lastly, I never reviewed my dress from Vogue 1674 that I made it to wear to an engagement party. I had one in progress, things went bad, I tossed it but recovered...but not in time for the party. I ended up wearing a RTW dress. 

I swiped these from my IG stories archive

2/13 8:28 p.m.: Excitement! This is going to be so cute!!!

2/15 9:36 a.m.: After I'd gone round and round with following the instructions for the lining

2/15 10:56 a.m.: After I'd literally ripped it apart and threw it in the trash 

2/15 4:53 p.m.: Ahhhhh. But it still needed sleeves and a hem and we had to leave at 6 p.m. 

The saga! :-p

I still never got styled pics because, Covid. But I can't wait to have a reason to wear it! It's a great party dress!

Happy New Year to all!

2020 -- The Hits!

I mentioned in my last post on my misses that I made 1.5 of my 9-square: Loungewear and I made a jumpsuit:

Loungewear: McCall's 7061

All made from M7061 (I'm wearing the heart-print top RIGHT NOW!). This is SUCH a good pattern.  The heart cotton jersey was a great pick from Fabric Mart long ago. The unicorn print, not so much. JoAnn Doodle knits. Meh. I still love the garments and wear them so, so often.

I still need to make a "real" version of the cowl top. It fits so nicely.

Jumpsuit from McCall's 8028 in a distressed french terry also from Fabric Mart. I wore this a ton this summer. Especially since post-reduction I don't need a bra for support. 

Here are 5 garments that I'm most proud of this year:

1. Butterick 6183

I scored this bit of silk twill from a remnant bin at SR Harris. I bought it to use as the cuffs for my lace hoodie (posted below) and realized I could cut this TNT from the <1 yard of fabric. Once I realized it was silk, I decided to make it worth it! I added some decorative trim in the horizontal seam and an exposed zipper and really, really love this make for the care put into it. 

2. Burda 1/2020

I loved the idea of this woven hoodie and when I decided to make it from lace well...swoon. I also had that lovely silk twill that I used for the cuffs.

3. Burda 2/2020 

I thought I had more construction pics but, nope. I finished this up about a week and a half after covid cases started rising here and never wore it. But it's such a GREAT item! The construction is tops and I am so proud of it. It'll appear here soon!!

4. Burda 3/2019

this was technically before it was finished

While I haven't worn this much -- I ordered swatches of twill from Mood and then once during a sale, I jumped on this Rag & Bone twill and it isn't bad it's a bit too stiff. But the jacket itself is a piece of pride!!

5. Vogue 1507

This pattern is so cool!!!!! And I love this fabric (SR Harris). It's a lightweight sateen, it's a vibrant print, the construction was SO fun.

And here are my most favorite makes this year!

1. Simplicity 1945

I love this pattern. The first time I made it I used a loosely woven sweater knit and I was a new sewer and it was not well done. This hacci knit was well behaved enough to sew well and I have worn it a gazillion times!

2. Burda 5/2020

The day I got this issue, I traced this pattern off and started sewing it! I later made it in an Ankara cotton but love this black cotton voile version MORE. It fits amazingly well, it highlights my shape nicely, it has those interesting sleeves...ahhhhh.

3. Burda 4/2019

I wore this on my birthday and a million more times over the summer. I had a really fun time planning out the stripes and sewing up this large-scale plaid. It's a cotton voile from Fabric Mart. 

4. McCall's 7061 

It's such a basic but it was EVERYTHING to me this year! I have worn it more times than I can even begin to count. A basic for sure.

5. Simplicity 8389

I think this is mainly a winner due to the amazing Rag & Bone crepe from Mood. They're comfortable and practical but cute!

6. Butterick 6378

I just finished this up recently but this pattern is well-loved and this fabric is amazing and so yeah, winning combo.

7. Simplicity 9011

I just finished this dress this month but it was another pattern that I saw and immediately knew I had to have. I used a rayon jersey from Stylish Fabric in a *perfect* teal and I never want to take it off!

Ahhhhhh. Good year for sewing for me!

I'll be back to update with my sewing stats for the year :-D 

2020 -- The Misses

 Let's start with the failed, through no fault of my own, 2020 plans!

I sewed loungewear and one jumpsuit. Thanks Covid! :eyeroll:

I had a couple sweaters on the list in that blog post and then early in the year (*right* before Covid hit) I scored my knitting machine. I have a sweater that is mostly done (I dropped a stitch when rehanging for the collar and don't know what to do with it). I just can't hand knit anymore. My hands are unable. And machine knitting is an entirely hobby in it's own right and I am still learning. 

It's further along now!

Also, I set a fabric budget of $250 for the year. I spent $535! Obviously, "Failed" there but I am not too broken up about it. I spent WAY WAY WAY less than I normally do and even with my new Babylock serger, I spent less on sewing, overall, than the past 3 years. I'll take it.

I'll speak more on that in my "Hits" post because I sewed a good bit from stash (65% of my makes!)

So, the garments. Ahhhhhhh. I know it's popular to list 5 hits and 5 misses and I don't usually work to adhere to that. It's whatever the numbers work out to be! But this year, I have 5 misses to share.

1. Vogue 8772

excuse my dirty mirror and too-big jeans. LOL!

I usually muslin Vogue patterns because I find they fit a bit differently than the other BMV blocks for me. I muslined the bodice and fully intended to muslin the sleeve, and forgot. I added 1" (clearly not enough!) so while yes, the bicep is still too small, there's ALSO the problem of the relationship to the bodice (compared to my body).

I have finally accepted that I just don't care for chambray. I feel like I should but I have never really cared for any finished garments from it. I have one shirt that I really love now, after it's been broken in.

I still have the top because I want to love it - and think it would be a cute layering piece with some dresses - but we'll see. I may try the trick I use with denim garments that I don't wear often, washing the garment every time I do laundry, even if it's unworn.

2. Simplicity 8948

I actually completed it but never photographed it, so this is the best shot I have to show the style.

Sighhhhhhhhhhhh. This is a gorgeous pattern. The collar is beautiful! The pleats at the neckline, the front slit, the back closure (4 buttons, very elegant!), the loose sleeve gathered with elastic - love.

I used a polyester georgette. Why? Whhhhyyyyyy?!?! I can only surmise that I was done-in by the print. I sprayed it with Best Press starch and still had some issues with cutting out. Also, I did not adjust the hip and I should have known better. It goes straight down from the bust and my bust is a pattern size 14, hips an 18. Also, Covid-gain has made it too tight across the back. I am going to remake it!! I have a weightier rayon crepe and I know what adjustments to make. :fingers crossed:

3. McCall's 7476

I know I'm always gushing but, I was SO excited about this cardigan! SO EXCITED!!! And then I got near the end of the project and tried to topstitch the flapping facings and GRRRRRRRR. I don't know why I even faced it. I really should have known better and just bound it. This ribbed sweater knit was NOT cooperating. I've tried to fix it a couple times, with a couple of tricks, and now I can't be bothered to unpick the stitches again. I think about it ever so often because it's CUTE! But, ugh, I don't feel like it.

4. McCall's 7547

Another extreme disappointment. I saved this denim for awhile because it was the perfect yellow. Not too pale, not too "primary", not too bright...And then I didn't have enough for my TNT (Style Arc Sandra). I should have just held off but I went ahead and sewed it up. I had muslined this pattern before, intending to make the overalls from a black cotton twill, but never got around to it. 

The jeans were pretty tight when I finished them but fit fine a short while later. The rise was SO long. It was ridiculous. I don't remember my adjustments anymore, unfortunately, but I know I shortened the pattern in front because I always do. Also, I knew better than to use that straight waistband, that just isn't an option for me. 

5. Simplicity 8890

There's nothing wrong with it, I just don't like it and wish I'd sewn the Burda swing dress I was considering. The design choice -- relatively straight back piece with a sharply angled front piece doesn't work IMO. Also, the weight of the fabric kept pulling my drawstring, loosening the back! And the back is lowwwwwww. I didn't want to risk flashing people should it dip all the way down without me realizing it. It's in my wardrobe still but unlike to make the next cull. 

See how heavy it falls at the side seam? MEHHHHHHHHH.

I have 6 Hits for the year - favorite garments that were sewn this year, and another 5 Accomplishments - garments with construction that makes me so proud. So the next post will be a monster one where I discuss those 11 garments!

Then, I will dish on my overall sewing statistics (yardage in/out, number of garments sewn, etc) for the year and finally, my plans for 2021. 

I know many have taken to social media for their primary discourse around sewing but reading yearly wrap-ups and statistics are one of my absolute favorite things :) Hopefully people keep posting, even if this year was a quiet one on the sewing front. 

Until later!!!